Medellín is known as “the city of the eternal spring” because the average temperature is 73°F year round. It rains most days; so bring an umbrella. It is the second largest city in Columbia with a population around 3.9 million. Some call it the folded city as the mountains surrounding the city seemed to have folded up the homes from the valley to the mountain tops. We were scheduled to arrive around 8:45 am but our flight time was changed and then delayed. We arrived to Hotel Plaza 10 closer to 4 pm. We settled in and then walked around the neighborhood. There were so many restaurants and shops we could be here for weeks. During the 80s and 90s, Medellín was considered the most dangerous city in the world and was ruled by organized crime. However, in 2012, the city was considered the most innovated city. Several key factors of the social and urban transformations were a shift in mentality, improved infrastructure, social development and art (especially graffiti).
To learn more about the city’s history and the graffiti art, we took a city tour. Our guide, Pablo was extremely knowledgeable and integrated the past with current history. He was born during Escobar’s height in power and has a deep understanding of the social, political and economical issues involved in the city’s transformation. We spent the majority of our time in Comuna 13-the historically most dangerous neighborhood in the city. It was known as a center for the gang, guerrilla and paramilitary activity. The use of graffiti, art and music were the first steps in bringing the community together after years of conflict and violence. Many of the murals depict the difficult past, corruption and impact of state intervention, and the importance of community action. We met @Chota_13 at his small shop/cafe. Chota is one of the most renowned artists of Comuna 13 and his work can be seen around the world. Eyes are often prominent in his murals because “no one can hide what they have experienced if you look into their eyes.”
Medellín has a well organized public transportation made up of trains, buses and cable cars. This also included escalators in Comuna 13. We took them around the city. Pablo shared how the first subway line was a major step in the city’s transformation because it provided a safe way for locals to travel within the city. The cable cars were also influential in the development of La Paz’s teleferia system. We traveled around to see the city from different points of view. Pablo bought a bag of freshly made churros and we ate lunch at In Situ inside the Botanical Gardens.
In addition to street art, we walked to the Museum of Modern Art. Definitely a must for art lovers. The exterior is a five-story concrete and rusted steel building that is visually stunning. The first floor was closed to set up an incoming exhibition, so we headed to the upper floors. There were views of the city from the gardens and the exhibitions showed a diverse group of artists.
We also visited the Museo de Antioquia and nearby Plaza Botero. The museum attempted to purchase one of Fernando Botero’s work; in response the artist donated the piece. Over the years he donated many more to the museum in his hometown. Botero’s work can be seen around the world and are known for featuring plumb and voluptuous subjects ranging from still life, people, animals and landscapes. There are many paintings about bullfighting because he initially went to matador school before pursuing the arts.
There museum houses a nice collection of pieces of Medellín-born Pedro Nel Gomez and other well known International artists such as Rodin, Stella and Ernst.
We wondered among the 23 Bronze Botero scattered around the Plaza Botero (only a few shown here). Afterwards we enjoyed a coffee at el laboratories de café and watched the flurry of activity in the square overshadowed by the Gothic-style Rafael Uribe Palace of Culture as we walked back to the train.
