The Great Ocean Road

 

The Great Ocean Road is only a 243km stretch of pavement but it took much longer than a few hours to drive.  The winding road between Torquay and Allansford was built between 1919 and 1932 as a memorial to fallen soldiers during World War I.  Today it is a popular vacation spot for locals and tourist. By the time we actually got to the “Great Ocean Road,” it was later than we hoped. This was confirmed when stopped at an iSite to pick up a paper map (just in case) and the employee seemed a little concerned about it getting dark before we arrived to our accommodations. Australian’s advise tourist not to drive around dusk (or dawn) because of the kangaroos jumping across the highways.

Nonetheless, she recommended that we stop near Anglesea and the Split Point lighthouse and then backtrack a little in the morning.  Anglesea had beautiful beaches and a golf course known for kangaroo tours (we skipped the golf course and enjoyed the beach views). 

 

Our second stop was the Split Point Lighthouse (aka the White Queen) on Aireys Inlet. We were hungry so we stopped at the Lighthouse Cafe.  Even though the cafe was closing shop when we arrived, the owners prepared us a hot cup of tea and a warmed up a piece of quiche. The young couple (she was a local and he was from France) purchased the cafe just a week ago!  We hope to return once they make it their own. Then we drove another hour as the sun set.  Other than the driver who tired to make a u-turn into our car and the second driver who swerved on the wrong side of the road, the multiple construction detours and the rain, the drive to Apollo Bay was average.

The following morning we took a short walk to Marriner’s Lookout. This privately owned land was donated so that others could enjoy this historic site and spectacular views of the bay. Sunshine saw a crimson rosella flying into the trees beside the road.

Because of recent weather, we heard there might be some road closures. The route to Beauchamp Falls included 12km on a narrow and windy road through the Turtons Track Conservation Reserve. We were lucky to be able to pass because there was a crew clearing fallen tree limbs. The drive was incredible, albeit a little scary at times because of the mist and lack of visibility. 

The Beauchamp Falls track followed the Deppeler Creek through towering Mountain Ash, Myrtle Beech, Blackwoods and giant ferns to a 20m waterfall. We were excited when we saw an Otway Black Snail-a rare carnivorous snail.

After lunch we drove out to the Cape Otway Lighthouse. On the drive we spotted two koalas-one eating and another sleeping! It is estimated that there are less than 100,000 koalas left in the wild.

Cape Otway Lighthouse is the oldest lighthouse in Australia was built in 1858.  Although hundreds of lives were lost in shipwrecks along the coast, the lighthouse was known as the “Beacon of Hope.” The volunteer in the lighthouse told us that its close proximity to Melbourne was one of the reasons for this nickname.  She also shared that the majority of shipwrecks were wooden sailboats with limited steering ability. There was a black swamp wallaby hanging out as we were heading back to our car!

We still had not seen a kangaroo in Australia, but this was about to change on the drive back to the main road. We spotted a few more wallabies and a pod of kangaroos. It was an extraordinary feeling but locals just laughed. What a day for spotting wildlife!

We were sad to leave Apollo Bay and our comfortable lodge but looked forward to the day ahead and driving along the Great Ocean Road.

We drove down the Great Ocean Road to the Twelve Apostles (originally called The Sow and Piglets). It is rumored to have changed names in the early 20th century during more religious times.  However, it is unlikely that the name was for the number of rock stacks that “qualify” as an apostle because there would have been thirteen or eight (depending on what is considered an apostle).  To complicate the matter more, one collapsed in 2005. Gibson Steps (formally Cog and Magog) are the only stacks that allow beach access. The sheer scale was humbling.

Loch Ard Gorge is not officially part of the Twelve Apostles and was named after a shipwreck in 1878.  The two rock stacks were named after the survivors, Tom and Eva. The beach and cove look enticing for swimming.  However, it is said that, “the waves are strong, the currents are treacherous, and the rocks are unforgiving.”

Razorback is another rock formation in the Loch Ard Gorge area that got its name because of its sharp edges and bumps caused by constant wind and erosion.  This areas has waves crashing into the rocks every 14 seconds. 

London Arch is what remains of London Bridge after it fell down.  There were tourists rescued by helicopter on the central arch collapsed in 1990.

The Grotto was probably our favorite stop of the day.  It was not a blowhole, arch, or cave, it was a little of all of those things. There were some young tourists taking photos with no regard of safety, posted signs, or others trying to enjoy the area. We were happy to see them leave but felt bad for the families who left without taking any photos.

Our second favorite stop was the Bay of Islands.  It was less crowded and about twenty minutes past the Grotto.  It was a collection of small rock formations.  We were getting tired and almost did not stop at the lookout!  

The last stop of the day was Logan’s Beach.  It is a popular spot for surfing and whale watching. The area is also referred to as a whale nursery because newborn whales mature in the bay before swimming south.  It was early in the season and we could only see two whales far out at sea.  Several locals said the whales are often just behind the breaking waves. Maybe next time!

We made it to Port Fairy just before sunset. We got the last table at the restaurant suggested by our inn. Even though it was national gin day, we ordered local wine.  It paired well with a buffalo mozzarella, fennel, and citrus vinaigrette salad.

Our final day on the Great Ocean Road started with a walk around Griffiths Island (formally called Rabbit Island).  We did not see any rabbits but did see a bird and a few wallaby carcasses. The Lighthouse was built in 1859 and the wall provided safer access from the south-westerly gales.

Several locals suggested we visit Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve. The park was filled with families picnicking and there was an emu trying hard to get feed—no one obliged. We then walked the Last of the Volcanos trail and saw more kangaroos-one jumped past Sunshine on the path! This was our final stop on the Great Ocean Road.