We returned to Hanoi and stayed in the West Lake or Ho Tay area of the city. We passed a portion of the long mosaic mural along Red River dike system. All of the tiles were produced in the nearby village Bat Trang and the incorporate images from the different periods of Vietnam’s history. In 2010 it was awarded the World’s largest ceramic mosaic by the Guinness Book of World.
The Tay Ho District is known for Hanoi’s largest freshwater lake. It has a circumference of 17 km and is a respite from the busy city. West Lake has several nicknames including Foggy Lake, Fox Corpse Swamp and Golden Buffalo Lake. Foggy Lake is easy to understand. Fox Corpse Swamp was after the legend that Dragon King Lac Long Quan drowned a nine tailed fox spirit in the water. Golden Buffalo Lake was after the story of a Chinese buffalo mother who got confused and lost her calf. None explain why there are so many names, but perhaps that detail was lost in translation. Regardless, this quiet and residential area was a nice place to spend a few days and our hotel room was over the water with beautiful views of the city. We noticed many fish floating in the lake. We found out that in July there was a mass fish death—more than 20 tones of dead fish were collected and removed. Test results showed they died from a lack of oxygen most likely caused by a prolonged heatwave and heavy rainfall. (We did not take any photos of the floating fish.)
It was still very hot and humid in the city so we explored and walked in the mornings and at night.
There was one rain storm that was incredible. We were chatting on the phone with Kaley when we noticed the water in the lake was moving different and visibility decreased. The rain, lightening, and thunder were intense as the quick moving storm passed over the lake.
We visited six of the more than twenty temples and pagodas around the lake. Tran Quoc Pagoda is one of the oldest pagodas in Vietnam and dates back to the reign of Emperor Ly Nam De Dynasty during the 6th century. The Buddhist shrine was once on the banks of the Red River and was relocated on an islet in West Lake in 1615. This pagoda was popular around the elite and the Royals during festivals and full moons.
Quan Thanh Pagoda or Tran Vu Pagoda is a Taoist temple built during the Ly Dynasty in the 11th century. It was built to honor the God of the North and uses many tortoises and snakes as symbols of power.
Cau Nhi Pagoda is on an island at the north end of the lake and is associated with the King Ly Cong Uan (the emperor who moved the capital to Thang Long, modern day Hanoi). The temple is associated with the Ly Dynasty’s worship of the Dog genies and the year of the dog. It was later restored to also worship the Fish and Water genies. For this reason, the temple is also known as Thuy Trung Tien or Water Fairy.
Dinh Yen Phu Pagoda is a Buddhist temple. It was very quiet and peaceful in the temple was closed during our visit.
Tay Ho Pagoda is a small pagoda on a peninsula in the middle of West Lake. It is neither Buddhist or Confucianist but rather dedicated to the Mother Goddess Princess Lieu Hahn. It is most popular on the first and 15th of each lunar month when pilgrims come to pray and give thanks.
Kim Lien Pagoda or Bai Bi Tu once belonged to the area of the former Tu Hoa Palace. It was built from the Princess Tu Hoa and her imperial maids in order to learn about understanding and respect.
1 Comment
J and J · September 4, 2019 at 4:10 am
You only visited six pagodas?
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